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For joiners and cabinetmakers.

The jig that hits your hole pattern exactly. Not the one from the catalogue.

The kitchen is in, the door hangs crooked, and the jig in your case has the wrong centre distance. At the fittings supplier that means three weeks lead time for a plastic part. Describe it in one sentence instead, set the dimensions and let the printer run overnight.

What you build with it

Six parts you cannot buy like that.

Drilling jig for concealed hinges

Cup diameter 35 mm, centre distance 45 or 52 mm, stop against the door edge. All three are sliders, not a new model.

Template for the system hole line

32 mm grid, 37 mm edge distance, length to match your side panel.

Handle drilling template

Hole spacings of 96, 128 and 160 mm on one part – with a stop for the front so nothing slips.

Dust extraction adapter

From your sander's port to the 35 mm hose. You measure both diameters and type them in.

Spare clip for the plinth

Measure one, rebuild it, print twenty – instead of ordering a set that does not contain the one you need.

Circle jig for the router

Radius freely selectable, mount to match your base plate.

Ready-made models

Free as an STL. Dimensions adjustable right on the model – no account.

See all models

Staying honest

What a printed part can do – and what it cannot.

Not every part belongs in the printer

What has to carry load does not get printed: connectors under permanent load, drawer runners, fittings that a door hangs from. Templates, jigs, adapters, covers and spare clips are exactly the right case. And a drilling jig needs steel bushings – otherwise the bit eats the plastic dimension away after ten holes.

Choosing the material

PLA is fine for templates that stay in the workshop. Anything that lives in the van should be PETG: PLA already warps behind the windscreen in summer at around 55 °C.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need CAD skills?

No. You describe the part in plain words – "drilling jig for concealed hinges, 35 mm cup, 45 mm centre distance, 3 mm stop" – and get a print-ready file. You then change the dimensions with sliders.

How accurate is the part?

Every model is re-measured after it is built. If a dimension deviates from your figure by more than 0.5 mm, it is corrected. What your printer makes of it after that depends on its calibration.

Which file do I get?

STL for the slicer, STEP for your CAD, DXF for cutting, and the source code of the model. All four at no extra cost.

What are you waiting for?
Off to production.

Describe your part. 50 generations on the house – and you see up front what comes after that.

Also for your trade:

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